Coimbatore : Deepavali week and amidst all the relative visits and the shopping and eating we decided to check out Top-Slip and Parmbikulam Wildlife Sanctuary on a quick day trip. Deepawali Kondattam is Tamil for Deepavali celebrations!
I called up Ramki and also met up with Dhaval Momaya . Both recommended Karian Shola, Top-Slip for, a quick one day trip. We started from Coimbatore at 5.15 AM and reached Sethumadai check post at 6.40 AM. Sethumadai is at the bottom of the hill from where the climb to Top-Slip starts. We did hear a lot of birds but it was tough to spot. We did see two Tree Pies. Tried to shoot but in the excitement, missed ratcheting up the ISO which was set at ISO 500 and got a great shot but, with subject motion blur 🙁
At Top-Slip we got hold of “Baby” a forest guide and by the time we started the Karian Shola trek it was past 8.15AM. Up in the canopy, we saw a couple of mixed hunting parties of tree pies, minivets. We headed straight for the favourite place for the frogmouths but the birdies were not there. A little later we had good sightings of a White Bellied Woodpecker. Our guide asked us to keep quiet and started to knock on a branch with his machette. The knocking sound was drawing the bird nearer, slowly but surely. Just as I was about to take a picture, Manju yelped on seeing a coupla leeches on her foot and, the bird flew away. Given the dark Shola the exposure was 1/5th @ F4 and ISO 1250! Maybe I can use the new Nikon D3 with its high ISO capabilities here ….slurp ..slurp !
The Kairan Shola trek turn back point is the watch tower. We rested on the flat rock by the stream and spotted a pair of Malabar parakeets high up in the trees. We also went in search of the Great Pied Hornbill whom we could hear close, but just couldn’t sight. The tracking and following was great fun ! Towards the end of the trek, we did sight a couple of Malabar Trogons and, an Emerald Dove came in to check us out.
All in all, a great trip but the lesson here is that one should start the Shola walk by 06.30 AM. Today the birds were high up in the canopy so even though you might sight a lot, photographing them is a different kettle altogether. I am told by friends that usually birds are not that shy but then, oh well.. it could be just one of those days for me ! I guess the best tactic is to choose a good spot and stay put. That way more chances of sightings and perhaps photography as well. I wonder if getting to the watch tower area earlier would have given us more sightings and a better scope for photography? Ideally it would be best to stay the night at Top-Slip and then do the Shola walk early next morning. Interestingly, I found the canteen-reception area also good for some birdwatching. Saw a few scarlet minivets and there is also a Brahmini nesting in the tall tree opposite the reception office.
This time of the year is when the rains are just getting over and the trail is full of leeches. December thru Jan being relatively dry, the there is no such leech problem. The Kairan Shola is closed form 15th Jan thru March, because of nesting period for the birds. So you cannot get permission to walk the Karian shola during that time. You can choose a few other shola trails to walk during this time.
Leech Time
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To stay at Top-Slip you need to book accommodation with the Wildlife Warden at Pollachi. Tele: +91 4259 238360 ; +91 4259 225356. The Reception at Top-Slip is manned by one Mr A Kandasamy and, he can be reached on +91 9442636853. The Top-Slip reception can help you set up guides etc.
At about 12.30 in the afternoon, we started up for Parmbikulam which is an extension of Top-Slip into Kerala state. At Parambikulam you need to compulsorily take a forest guide along in the car. Not much of birding I could see but then that was because we hit the place in the afternoon.
The park is home to almost three hundred species of birds including some rare birds and mammals like, the Great Pied hornbill, the Nilgiri Tahr and the Lion Tailed Macaque. The forest guide told us about some tented accommodation thats available for Rs3000 a night. There is a dorm which goes at Rs80 a night as well . What I would prefer, is the beautiful cottage on the waterfront of the dam reservoir that one can stay at and at only Rs500 per night ! Something we must try the next time.
The Nilgiri Langur
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Really messed up these shots and underexposed by one whole stop which really messes up the noise..grrr. But um I do love this guys hairdo ! I had forgotten that my camera was on manual from the earlier shola trek settings. I did apply EV compensation but, that wont work in manual mode ! Should have switched to Aperture Priority mode and then used EV compensation. Something to keep in mind for future shoots. I have pulled these up by one stop in post processing. Not the greatest but, will do for web output 🙂
We also came to know about an old British railway line ( now abandoned) which connected Parambikulam to Chalakudy . The railway helped transport what was known as “Cochin Teak” to the port at Cochin. This old track is now a trekking trail.In the park you can have boat rides and do day treks. There is also a bungalow on an un-inhabited island in the middle of the reservoir, where you can book a room to stay !
Although the forest guides were quite enthusiastic and some pretty knowledgeable too but, most of them did not have a basic bird guide. We had taken along the Salim Ali book published by the BNHS and, surprisingly most guides wanted to get their hands on one ! So those who have some old and unused bird guides, you know now where to send them.
For bookings @ Parambikulam
Wildlife Warden,
Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary,
Anappady, Thunakadavu(PO), Parambikulam, 678661,
Palakkad Dist, Kerala.
Tele: +91 4253 245005
Email: parambikulamsanctuary AT gmail DOT com
Will upload the pics once I am back home in Bombay 🙂
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